In almost any modern construction project, a certain amount of concrete is necessary to get the job done. It's firm, sturdy, and reliable when you know how to use it. Sometimes, the bigger the construction project, the stronger you need your concrete to be. That's why it is important to understand steel reinforcement mesh and its application in strengthening concrete.
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What is it? How do you know if you need it? Do all concrete construction projects need reinforcing mesh? Here's what you need to know.
Rebar and Reinforcing Mesh options
When it comes to reinforcing concrete, there are two main options. One option is the rebar, or a reinforcing bar, which is a steel rod that comes in different thicknesses. These are usually ribbed for better grip. Rebars typically encompass the edges of the slabs.
Wired mesh is often paired with rebars, but not always. The steel mesh is made up of wires melded together into a flat sheet. The wires form a square, grid-like pattern. Like the rebars, mesh comes in varying sizes and thicknesses. The most common size is 1/8' thick (4 mm) and 6' long by 6' wide (150 mm x 150 mm).
Neither rebar nor mesh rust inside the concrete like one might suspect. The curing of concrete seals it off from oxygen, which is what causes the rusting of steel. That's why thicker slabs of concrete are better suited to steel reinforcement.
Do All Concrete Projects Need Reinforcement?
No, they do not. Larger projects or slabs may need steel reinforcement to provide support or extra strength. Wired mesh can also help resist cracking. However, not every piece of concrete necessarily requires that extra boost.
When you're working on a major project, it's important to carefully look over plans and building requirements. Some locations require reinforcement no matter the size or scale of the concrete. This is especially true of certain public buildings.
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The main slabs that require the steel reinforcing mesh will be those that expect a heavy workload. Anything from a lot of foot traffic, walls, or other foundational pieces will need that extra strength.
How Do You Know If You Need It?
If you're working on something residential like a pathway or a shed floor, you likely don't need the reinforcement. Even some driveways don't need the steel mesh, but most recommend it since vehicles weigh quite a lot.
Something like a carport or garage floor may not require a permit. They should, however, have reinforcement. They take a lot of weight and traffic, so they need the support.
Even if your project is small, take note of the ground underneath. For softer or spongy ground, the slabs on top could benefit from some extra reinforcement!
Conclusion
If your permit or building ordinances require steel reinforcement, mesh wire is a great choice. If you're working on residential projects or your own home, the need for support varies. Take note of the project, the ground underneath, and the purpose of the concrete. All of these factors will help you decide if and how much reinforcement you need.
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I've gotten to the point where I need to buy mesh for my future pad. I'm shopping at Home Depot and they have two types. A roll that is 5' tall and 150' long for $105 and the panels that are 3'x7' for $7.20/each.
I'm going to need enough to cover my 18'x25' pad. This means 19 panels ($150 after tax) or I can use the roll, but have 40' left over or so and that would be $115.
Is one better than the other? Is it worth the extra $35 for the mesh panels to avoid the need to measure and cut the roll and then try to get it to lay flat so I can tie it down? I'm leaning to the panels even though it's more expensive per square foot.
Advice is greatly appreciated.
Model A: I always have used REBAR or scrap steel on my sidewalks and most of the flat surfaces I've poured. I had a couple young kids to a pad for me 30 years ago with mesh though and even though my yard fell into my neighbor's house (his fault) 1/2 the pad sat suspended and held up and I think it was only 4 inches thick. if I recall correctly they used the roll and I probably would if I didn't have any rebar. I usually pick up rebar any time I see it laying around when i'm buying tools or STUFF so I usually have some. I need to use it on the new driveway i'm planning on pouring hopefully this year.
also if you do get rebar we use decent size rocks we find in the yard and toss in a bucket or the stores sell little plastic risers to keep it settling to the bottom.
good luck
For anything more than a couple of sticks, rebar from a local steel supplier will be WAY cheaper than from HD. For a serious tomato cage project, I ordered a bunch of #3 rebar, had it delivered in 20' lengths and saved a bundle vs buying myself at HD.
As for a cutoff disc, yeah, you could do that, and it would work for a few cuts. I bought a set of HF's largest bolt cutters (42" IIRC) and modified them with a bracket so I could lay one handle on the ground and have it still stand up (to use it like a rebar cutter but much cheaper). They ran me around $35. I made a few thousand cuts, and they still look like new. I've also got a Portaband which is amazing on rebar, but the bolt cutters were cheaper than blades for this project.
Depending on what usage the slab will be put to, but these days with quality concrete being less than it used to be, I too would opt for the rebar. Mesh is best for sidewalks and low stress usage. Mesh won't prevent cracking but only holds the pieces together when it does. The real secret is lots of steel and 6 bag mix or better. Once down concrete never gets better, only worse, and it's something you live with forever. When looking at ugly cracks, no one ever talks about the few bucks they saved, just about the bad results from trying to save a few bucks. Also, use a sealer to retard moisture loss during the curing process.
Model A Fan I think your choice of wire mesh is a good one for a properly designed residential slab that doesn't see high loads and that has a properly compacted sub-grade. The wire mesh 6" square pattern is better than re-bar spacing of 18" or 24".
Opinions vary, and this is just my opinion based on my "good luck" on the 4 previous buildings I have had at 3 previous homes.
In regard to your Wire Mesh questions: stay away from the rolls, buy Wire Mesh Mats.
There's a lot of engineering that goes into concrete welded wire mesh. Here's a link fall that engineering: Standard Practice for Structural Welded Wire Reinforcement.. lot's of good data here: http://files.engineering.com/getfil...c=.1.&__hsfp=
The concrete wire mesh at Home Depot and your local lumber yard is typically 10 gauge, the thinnest wire mesh mat available.
8' x 20' concrete wire mesh mats are available from companies like HD WhiteCap (they have stores in Washington) in various gauges, such as 10, 6 and 4 gauge.
Here are some more links for you:
6 x 6-W2.9 x W2.9 6 ga 8' x 20' Wire Mesh Mat http://www.whitecap.com/shop/p/6-x-6-w29-6-ga-8-x-20-wire-mesh-mat-g820
6" x 6" W1.4 10 ga 8' x 20' Wire Mesh Mat http://www.whitecap.com/shop/p/6-x-6-w14-10-ga-8-x-20-wire-mesh-mat-g820
To support the wire mesh mats use concrete dobies. These are square pieces of concrete with a wire in them that allows you to tie it to the mesh.
Here's a link to various dobies: http://www.whitecap.com/shop/wc/search?searchTerm=dobie
And this is the size I used. I picked them up at the local HD Whitecap for 0.28 cents a piece: http://www.whitecap.com/shop/p/dayton-superior-cwd-2-dobie-with-wire-
I'd caution you on the use of bricks. Ideally you want a product that the concrete will adhere to, and that wouldn't degrade over time and leave a void. Nothing is better than concrete for this application.
If you use 6 gauge concrete wire mesh, on concrete dobies spaced on 24" centers, it is a stiff enough assembly such that it stays where you want it.
Hope this helps. Good luck with your project.
As a side note:
I would recommend against the use cattle panels that Evilunclegrimace recommended above. Most of these panels have a non-uniform panel layout which creates non-uniform stresses in the concrete. Concrete wire mesh is made from high tensile strength steel specifically manufactured, welded and tested for it's intended purpose. Cattle panels are made for, well, cattle.'