Pipe clamps are great but they're just one more thing to clutter up my 1/3-of-a-garage workshop. So on the rare occasions I need really long clamps, I instead use my one-handed clamps in spreader mode (see last 3 pictures, in case you weren't aware these clamps could do this!) and whatever long lumber is handy. Screw blocks into the 2×4 at such a distance that you can fit the clamp between the block and the workpiece, and tighten. This is unwieldy if you're doing this a lot, but it's fine for the occasional job and has the advantage that the lumber also acts to prevent the clamped material bowing under pressure. Note there is also a commercial product that converts 2×4s into pipe clamps.
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Final words
Hopefully this list will give you some ideas next time you need a clamp for a one-off job. My main advice: dry-fit it all together first. That will let you know if your MacGuyver-ed clamping set up is actually up to the task. If it doesn't hold everything in place and close all the gaps, you'll either need to apply more pressure or to cut your gluing surfaces truer.
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You may not want to really carnk down on the clamps. Doing so can squeeze out most of the glue and result in a poor bond. The secret to a good glue joint is the proper amount of glue and the proper amount of pressure. Having enough clamps is key also. You can have clamps and one day you will need a .
Check out garage sales and flea markets for good used pipe and bar clamps. Just make sure that the rear stop holds tight and you should be fine. If doing light clamping you can use strips of inner tubes sliced like rubber bands. As Bill said the pipe clamp kits are the way to go, just remember that they come in two sizes 1/2" and 3/4". Sometimes you can find the pipe for free, just make sure that one end is threaded.
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